Fortunately, removing the hair and particles with our fingers should be enough to clean them. In most cases, the washing machines do have a lint catcher included in their system.
The location of the catcher inside the machine can vary between models, but most of them have the filters making direct contact with the clothing pieces you put inside. As the items move during the cycle, the catcher will trap whatever they are leaving behind, including hair, and other particles.
Unlike the other catcher that you have to throw into the washing machine, the hair filter requires a thorough maintenance process. Locating the filter is the first step, as it often varies depending on the washing machine manufacturer.
To make the task easier, check the repair manual provided by the producer. There, you should have all the information required to locate the filter. However, there are several locations you can check to see if the filter is there. Those locations are the following. Check if the cover for the agitator is removable, and inspect the bottom right where it connects to the tub.
Again, those are some of the possible locations that could have the lint filter. Make sure the filter is removable, and then get it out as instructed on the manual. When clothes go through the washer, dirt and lint are lifted from the garments but remain on the fabric in its wet state. During drying, the lint is released as water is removed from the wet fabric and friction increases as a result of the tumbling action.
Finally, a heating mechanism within the dryer called an open-wire element creates an air stream that sweeps through the garments, blowing the lint off and trapping it in the lint screen.
Reduced airflow resulting from lint buildup can cause the appliance to operate at elevated temperatures and overheat. Let's start by looking at the cycle control knob. By turning this knob to various positions, you can control both the type of cycle and the length of time it runs. Let's take a look at what is inside this switch.
Here is a view of the back of the cycle switch. Attached to the back is a little motor. The picture below shows the motor unscrewed from the switch. The tiny gear on the motor turns very slowly; and it engages a bigger gear inside the switch that makes the switch turn even slower.
The motor turns the gear on the dial , which is connected to a set of four cams stacked on top of each other. Each of the cams engages one of the four contacts in the switch. Each of the four contacts has a bend in it, and each bend is located at a different height inside the box. Starting with the bottom left contact , the heights increase in a counterclockwise manner; the bottom left contact is the lowest, the top left contact is the highest.
A different cam engages each of these contacts. In the pictures below, you can see the four cam layers; each of these layers corresponds in height to one of the contacts.
The cycle switch determines how long the elements stay on. In conjunction with the heat setting buttons , it also controls which heating elements are on at a given time. If none of the heating elements are on, only cool air blows through the clothes; if one is on, the air is warm; and if both are on, the air is hot.
If you press any of the top four buttons, they stay depressed. If you then press a different button, the first one pops up, and the new button stays pressed in. A really neat set of plates that work like the tumblers in a lock make this feature possible, and also control which heating elements are engaged.
Inside the switch are a set of four contacts. Depending on which button is pressed in, the plates open or close various combinations of the contacts. The following set of pictures illustrates how pressing the buttons causes the plates to line up in different ways, raising or lowering the bars that make the contacts.
The dryer also has a couple of safety features that help to prevent overheating. There are two temperature shut-off switches. When these switches reach certain preset temperatures, they break contact, which shuts the dryer off. The built up lint is a fire hazard due to the overheated air and the overheated motor.
Not cleaning the air vent that comes out of the back of the dryer to let the hot damp air and some bits of lint that manage to get through the dryer and build up in the dryer vent can and will eventually cause a second fire hazard. Surprisingly enough, the lint catchers do work.
You have to do nothing more than to throw them into the washing machine before the washing cycle begins, and let the machine do its work. Once it finishes, particles like pet hair or lint get stuck inside the catcher. The Lint Trap and Screen — Depending on the design of your dryer the lint trap will either be on the top of the dryer or located just inside the door.
Be sure to locate the dryer's lint trap , which houses the lint screen, before continuing. You should clean the lint trap in your dryer before or after each use. Once A Month. Removing the lint from your lint trap is important, but it won't get it completely clean.
Once A Year. The lint that makes it past the filter gets trapped in crevices deep inside the lint filter trap and all along the dryer ductwork as it makes its way to the outside vent opening. When the lint builds up, they restrict airflow and lead to overheating, which can ignite the lint itself. Dryer lint is lint generated by the drying of clothes in a clothes dryer; it typically accumulates on a dryer screen.
Underwriters Laboratories recommends cleaning the lint filter after every cycle for safety and energy efficiency. Failure to clean the lint filter is the leading cause of home clothes dryer fires. You should clean your dryer hose and around it once a year, and inspect the vent and hose for any blockages at least every 6 months.
Most lint traps are located just inside the dryer door. After every load, remove the trap and scrape away the lint.
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